Sleeping bus – well, no, not exactly

(Originally posted 4 March 2016) Vietnam has a wonderful way to travel between cities that are spread out, and it is called a sleeping-bus. It sounds like a great idea – fully reclined seats that allow you to sleep while travelling overnight to your next destination.

In principle, this can be a comfy way to travel. But only if you are under five feet tall, which we are not. I am a reasonably tall girl at 1.78m, but my husband Schalk comes in at 1.96m. So our first sleeping bus experience was interesting.

Each bus has three rows of double-stacked sleeping births. The back row differs depending on whether the bus has a toilet on board, but this was the only place Schalk could ‘sort of’ fit. His feet dangle off the edge, much to the bus conductor’s annoyance.

Sleeping bus interior - reclying seat
Sleeping bus is perfect if you are under five feet tall

To make things more comfortable, you are expected to remove your shoes in front and are given a plastic packet for them. Unfortunately, there is no space for carry-on luggage, so in our case, we had to place these bags of shoes on our laps, together with a large day pack each.

Once you are settled in and have found some way to get as comfortable as possible, the disco mnight’sd lights start to get you in the mood for a good night’s rest. The experience is a little bizarre, to say the least.

Three legs on the sleeping-bus and three cities further, we have spent a few days longer in Hoi An than originally anticipated. Partly this is due to it being a lovely quaint little town, but it is also because we are faced with a gruelling 24hr bus trip to get to Ho Chi ‘inh ‘ity (a bus ticket already paid for as part of the ‘open’ sleeping-bus ticket).

This morning we had a hard and honest conversation with each other and booked a flight. Yes, we are weak but older and have better credit than most backpackers. Hence, we are both in complete agreement on this call.

Sapa’s Autumn, Winter, Spring

(Originally posted 23 February 2016) In February, time spent in Sapa lets you experience three seasons in a matter of minutes. It took us a few days to realise the town was much bigger than anticipated because the mist only lets you see a few metres ahead.

We are both wide awake during our 4:30 am minibus taxi ride in north-eastern Vietnam from Lao Chai to Sapa. 18-Wheeler trucks emerge from the misty whiteout honking their horns as they pass on the narrow mountain pass. We find ourselves saying our goodbyes to each other just in case and smiling nervously at the other 13 passengers jammed amongst the luggage in what feels like an eight-seater vehicle.

At 6:30, the taxi dropped us off at our hotel, which was locked up tight. Once we are eventually in, the sleepy receptionist is very pleased to offer us the room with the best view of the mountain (except when you can barely see your hand in front of your face, that is not really a perk). We were exhausted from our overnight bus trip and taxi ride, and having climbed five flights of stairs with heavy packs, we caught a few hours’ sleep before exploring the town.

Everything we need seems much cheaper in Sapa. It is a good place to stock up on some basics and get some laundry done while planning activities for the next few days. Walking in the streets results in one or more ladies from a local rural village following you. “Hello, where you from?” is the standard greeting from these colourfully dressed ladies loaded with beautiful jewellery and hand-stitched crafts.

Su is 22 and a mother of two. She lives in Cat Cat village and tries to sell her wares to the tourists every day. Her English is excellent, and we learn about her family and life and promise only to buy souvenirs from her.

Su from Cat Cat Village in Vietnam selling beuatiful bags and trinkets
Su from Cat Cat village, who openly shares her story with us

Waiting out the weather for a break in the mist, we want to visit Fansipan. This peak is the highest mountain in the region, and our hotel staff highly recommend a visit using the recently opened cable car attraction. Eventually, we decided to make a go of it in temperatures around 6° Celsius.

The Fansipan facility is still shiny and brand new, with attentive staff showing the way to the cable car. The car is all ours, and we enjoy the view of the rice paddies for the first 300m before the climb starts getting steep and the mist closes in. It is very eerie travelling in a carriage swaying in the air for almost 30 minutes where all you can see outside is white.

Mention was made of a few steps to get to the summit. After 40 minutes of climbing, we are too exhausted to count steps anymore. Several water breaks later (and patches of standing very still just trying to breathe), we got to the windy 3,143m mark and could take our pics. The view is apparently spectacular on a clear day, which it certainly was not, but we are still proud of ourselves for having persevered.

Halfway up the stone steps is a brand new pagoda. It has been designed in the traditional style and is beautiful. Standing inside, out of the wind and facing the doors, we had a magical moment watching the mist flow into the temple. It blends with the incense and floats amongst those saying their prayers. This will definitely make it into the list of our favourite experiences.

Trekking is one of the most common activities in the area. As two formerly desk-bound unfit office workers, we opted for a short morning trek to a local village in the valley. The walk is lovely, with the sun trying to break its way through the cloud. The river cascades all along the route as we make our way down. The only downside is that the litter we have seen everywhere in Vietnam is also a constant here.

We enter the village after a muddy walk, and our guide informs us that we are lucky today as it is a special day in the home that has welcomed us. They celebrate an upcoming wedding in the little dark wooden home, with the future groom and his parents visiting the potential bride’s family. The young girl getting married is 13 and has already stopped going to school, and her husband-to-be looks to be about 16 and very nervous. We all toast the couple and drink a shot of rice wine—another moment for the books.

Celebration meal for the upcoming wedding in the family’s village home (screengrab from the video we took)

We leave Sapa tomorrow and will make our way south to warmer weather. However, I doubt we will find a warmer welcome elsewhere.

Fingers Flambé

(Originally posted 15 February 2016) We have had our first noteworthy injury on our round-the-world trip. While dishing up some breakfast, the paper serviette that Schalk was holding under his plate caught fire.

It is worth noting that breakfast is served early at our current location and Schalk only fully wakes up by about lunchtime. So when a sleepy Schalk was told he was on fire, he may have reacted a little slow to put out the fire. Three fingers got slightly toasted with a great big blister forming on one finger.

All in all, we think he was lucky as he quickly got his hand under cold running water. Two travelling chefs were also quick to come to his rescue with burn cream and dressing for the fingers (it is nice to see how strangers are willing to help fellow travellers in a difficult situation without a second thought).

We will watch the fingers carefully as they heal to check that they don’t get infected but luckily it seems Schalk got off lightly.

Advice directly from Schalk: “When a stranger says you are on fire – believe him!”

Blister forming on a burnt finger
Blister on Schalk’s recovering finger

A little piece of heaven disguised as a slightly run-down resort

(Originally posted 14 February 2016) In the movie Braveheart, Stephen to William Wallace says that the island (Ireland) is ‘mine’. This feeling of belonging and possession is how it felt at times on Nam Cat island – one of the many tiny islands surrounding the larger Catba island off the coast of Hai Phong, Vietnam.

From about 9 am to about lunchtime, we had the island to ourselves with all the basic comforts you would need. These precious morning hours on our island could be spent on the foggy days taking photos of the mist and rain rolling in over the island mountains dotted around us. The sunny days allowed you to see all kinds of fish right from the jetty. Sitting alone at the end of the tiny pier watching the boats pass in the distance, could be described as the idyllic vacation.

It is my island – Nam Cat, Vietnam

But the island was not ours for the whole day. In fact, this little resort is a very popular stop for tourists passing through the area that want to spend a night on a private island. A new group pours in from midday, carrying rucksacks and noisily dragging bags over the jetties to check-in. The visitors come in all shapes and sizes and have very different travel itineraries. The older travellers stop to greet us and share their stories, and the younger backpackers gather on the beach throwing Frisbees and playing music. Early the following morning, they set off en masse again to continue their journey.

Due to this constant flow of visitors, every person who works at the resort and can speak some English stops by to greet us and acknowledge that they know we are the people who are staying for six whole days!? They offer to accommodate our every need, implying their particular willingness to do this for the special long-term guests.

Granted, there is not much to do on Nam Cat island. The beach is only about 100m long, and you can’t walk around the island as the cliffs are too steep with the cliffs ending in the water on both sides of the resort – long walks are out of the question. There are, however, some canoes for an outing. Otherwise, you need to catch a boat to the main island, which takes about 30 minutes, costing 300 000 VND.

The resort could do with some maintenance, but the longer you stay, the less you see the flaws. No Wi-Fi also means you are cut off from the rest of the world.

Having said that, this stop has been the perfect second week for our round-the-world trip. We really needed to slow things down and chill out. The anxious feeling of having to rush about to finish as many tasks as possible takes a while to work itself out of your system. Our island is the perfect place to do just that.

Nam Cat Island Resort – our bungalow for the week

Cash is King

(Originally posted 13 February 2016) In Hanoi, there were ATMs around every corner. This gave us the impression that we would be able to draw cash more easily than originally anticipated. In general, we also have enough cash on hand to get by as we draw the maximum daily allowance each time withdraw, but when you are on an isolated island, you could be caught in a tricky situation.

The only thing on Nam Cat island is Nam Cat Resort. You need to pay 300 000 VND to get off the island (a 40-minute boat trip) and while on the island you are limited to the food and drink available at the resort prices. Normally this would be fine as you would simply settle your bill using your credit card at the end of the stay. But when the island has poor cell reception and no Wi-Fi, credit cards are not an option.

In an attempt to solve this problem, we caught a boat into Catba Town to draw some cash only to find that all the ATMs were out of order. Together with a handful of Dollars and Euros, we have stashed away, we may be able just to cover our bill. As a plan B, we already considering which electronics we have to use for bartering. We will let you know how it turned out.

Update on 19 Feb 2016: The staff from the resort accompanied us to Catba Town on our last day, and the ATMs were back online. So the good news is that we did not need to sell any of our possessions and have travelled on to our next stop in Vietnam.

You have been disconnected

(Originally posted 6 February 2016) Within hours of arriving in Vietnam, I either lost my iPhone, or another commandeered it. I had it in the pocket of my sweatshirt which I took on and off as we moved inside and outside of terminals and buses, but before we reached the city it was missing.

Most of today’s generation Xers are like me, pretty attached to their phones, sometimes without realising how much. We check what everyone is up to on Facebook, see what today’s weather is going to be, take photos of anything interesting, stay connected to contacts via WhatsApp, find your way around using the maps, and know what transactions are coming off your bank accounts. I also use my phone for listening to audiobooks and managing our Expedia travel bookings.

Not having a smartphone, is quite devastating. Separation anxiety set in quite quickly and my husband was kind enough to let me just hold his phone for a few hours. We quickly realised this was no solution. Besides my habitual dependency on the device, one reason we do want to each have a phone is so that if we part ways during our travels we have a means of contacting each other. This is especially relevant considering my husband’s negative sense of direction – if he got lost we may never see him again. Ever!

I am now the proud owner of a Samsung. We got me set up with a Vietnamese SIM card and data (which is so cheap here compared to South Africa). I was online again, back to my voyeuristic tendencies on Facebook and feeling right with the world.

Then we went to an island with no connectivity… another blog post for another day.

Featured image source: https://pixabay.com/photos/tech-wifi-technology-communication-875480/

I miss you so today

(Originally posted 3 February 2016) As we get ready to fly out to Vietnam from South Africa at the end of the week, I can’t help but remember this humorous song, Aeroplane Jane, by South African musician, Karen Zoid. It is all about the frustrations of flying and how you miss those who are not travelling with you.

In this final week before we leave for our round-the-world trip, we are now officially homeless, unemployed and have moved back in with mom. Many of our amazing South African friends have been carving out precious time to spend with us. Those we have not been able to see have been sending encouraging messages and wishing us well.

Although the song by Karen Zoid makes you laugh, it also captures how we will feel about leaving all these wonderful people behind: “You’re a million miles away, and I miss you so today!”

Featured source image: https://pixabay.com/photos/paper-document-company-newspaper-3094347/

Lessons learnt when preparing for our travels

(Originally posted 1 January 2016) We learnt a few fun and a few tough lessons while preparing for our 2016 round-the-world trip. We’re sure the lessons will keep coming but here are six important lessons we recently learned.

1. Admin never goes away

A long-term vacation is a dream for most. You unrealistically also tend to think that it will be a vacation from the soul-destroying admin that comes with life. But before you can go to most countries, especially as a South African, you need valid visas to legally enter. No matter how organised you are with your documentation, this is always a hassle.

Be sure to draw up checklists to help you submit all the right paperwork, and always make a few more copies of documents than you think you’ll need.

2. Never underestimate the power of the pencil pushers

Linked to the above lesson, you will need to work with many administrators who have the power to make your life difficult and unnecessarily complex when sorting out all the paperwork – from selling your house, moving your money to offshore accounts, providing the personal documentation you need for visas and processing the visas.

Try your best not to take out your frustrations with all the bureaucracy on them when things go wrong and progress at a snail’s pace. If you can keep your cool, be super friendly and win them over, you are likely to achieve so much more because they are on your side.

3. Save more than think you will need

You have a plan. But no matter how well you plan, things change. The currency devaluation of the South African Rand is a massive problem as it fluctuated a lot before we left on our trip.

Whatever goes wrong, you are likely to need more savings than you think you may need. So squirrel away as much extra cash as possible or you may need to be more flexible with your plan to keep costs down – here’s hoping we don’t have to chop a whole country from our itinerary.

4. It is harder to say goodbye than you think it will be

It can be an emotional rollercoaster, bouncing between the massive excitement of planning your dream trip and saying goodbye to loved ones. Although technology allows you to stay and touch, and for most travellers, a vacation is not forever, our end destination is a new country and new home making it particularly difficult.

Just take it one day at a time, focus on the exciting adventure ahead and know that the people meant to be in your life will stay close to you – even if only in spirit.

5. You can do it better and cheaper than a travel agent

We keep doubting our abilities regarding making the bookings and planning our holidays. We, therefore, still ask different travel agents for quotes or advice. Unfortunately, many of the travel agents have far less travel experience than we do. Also, the agents sometimes only work with providers that give kickbacks pushing up the costs far higher than what you would ordinarily pay by booking directly.

Remember that a part of the fun of travelling can be planning it yourself and doing all the research on the places to visit and things to see. The online resources available make this easy for any traveller.

6. You can’t control the pace

You put your house on the market because the sale could take a few months, only for it to be sold quickly requiring you to move out in two weeks. On the other hand, you apply for a visa that should only take five working days, it arrives late and then it has been issued for completely the wrong dates requiring you to begin the process from scratch (this happened to us this week).

Keep calm and learn to adapt. Things will happen but perhaps not quite according to your timelines.

All in all, we are learning a lot through this planning process, and unfortunately, we still have a lot of work to do on ourselves regarding being patient and not getting agitated with jumping through red tape hoops.

Featured image source: https://pixabay.com/photos/learn-word-scrabble-letters-wooden-1820039/

Ready for a little admin hell?

(Originally posted 22 December 2015) When escaping from normal life to become a traveller, you are excited to move away from the day-to-day drudge and are now entering a care-free existence. Then reality strikes in the form of visa applications.

It can be enough to dampen any travel plans, especially for South African passport holders – the places you can travel to without a visa are very limited.

It is really complicated.

We are already welcome in some countries, but this is not straightforward. We have a visa for the US, but the visa appears in old passports that we will have to carry with us (as well as our marriage certificate as it was issued in Lauren’s maiden name). Then we have a visa for Australia, but it does not appear in our passport – we simply have a letter from the Australian government. Another difficult one to explain to a customs official who wants to see a visa for your end destination.

You usually need to prove that you have no intention of staying permanently in a country when applying for a visa. This includes a flight ticket back to your home country and a permanent residential address and job. But with an extended vacation that will shape itself along the way, you don’t want to buy that ticket home yet, and you have let go of most of the things tying you down to one home. The authorities don’t seem to like that and don’t embrace the lack of commitment and conformity that you aspire to achieve.

Why so nervous?

Another strange thing is that we are simple travellers wanting to see and learn as much as possible from other cultures. We’re not some international criminal masterminds avoiding the authorities and living a double life. In fact, we can be considered law-abiding and boringly uninteresting rule-following individuals. Yet, we get so nervous when dealing with the embassies – ensuring all the paperwork is correct, nothing has been overlooked, and all the information submitted is aligned and giving the exact truth.

All this admin causes sleepless nights, hours of pouring over the same paperwork, checking and re-checking. Just when you think you are getting this process nailed, the following application requires something completely different with a different version of your passport photo. No matter how prepared or how many times you have done it before, you always feel like you are running the visa application gauntlet.

Is penance due?

Perhaps the admin hell of visa applications is the penance you have to pay to live an extraordinary life filled with travel. When life becomes a vacation, maybe visa applications will remind you of the real world.

Let’s start here – Vietnam

(Originally posted 6 December 2015) The great travel plan has been a little vague, and intentionally so. We want to have some level of spontaneity on our travels, but flights still need to be booked, and visas still need to be secured (As South Africans, there are very few places we can visit that don’t require visas, and many of these have to be applied for in advance from South Africa).

Earlier this month, we booked the flight to our first destination – Vietnam. The country has been on our bucket list for some time, mainly due to rave revues from other travellers. We were ready to click ‘buy now’ on Expedia but hesitated when we realised we knew very little about where we wanted to go and even where we wanted to start in Vietnam.

The easiest way to get a quick overview of the must-see sights was to look at some package tours. Although we want to explore the less travelled paths on the trip, we certainly don’t want to miss the iconic sites.

After researching a little, we have decided to start in Hanoi, explore the northern areas, including the mountains and lakes, and slowly make our way south over a month to Ho Chi Minh City. After Vietnam, we want to head to Cambodia, Nepal, and India.

Floating market in Mekong Delta, Vietnam
(Source: https://pixabay.com/photos/floating-market-vietnam-cantho-city-5104723/)

We will arrive in Vietnam just in time for Tet, the Vietnamese new year, with 2016 set to be the year of the monkey. This could mean that an ordinarily bustling city is very quiet as families take the time to have a holiday together. We, therefore, wanted to make sure we got there two days before and secured a place to stay.

So, for now, we have only booked our flight in and the first two weeks’ accommodation through Expedia and will slowly start to plot the rest. We got a great deal through Expedia when booking our accommodation due to the discounts offered when you have booked your flight. We also used some of our loyalty points to get this deal, but it remains to be seen if our $6 per person room is anything close to what we saw on the net.

Featured image source: https://pixabay.com/photos/sapa-lao-cai-vietnam-1015835/