Nowhere in Particular

200 Days and Going Strong

(Originally posted 24 August 2016) We have now been travelling for 200 days. What a privilege! We have done and seen some fantastic things.

Some of the standout memories would include visits we have had from family on the trip, as well as meeting up with friends from back home who are currently living abroad. Then, of course, we have done some really cool things. To name a few:

scenic flight over Mt. Everest,
river rafting in Nepal,
climbing hundreds of steps to summit Mt Fansipan (Vietnam),
watching fireworks for Vietnamese New Year celebrations,
watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat Temple (Cambodia),
walking to glaciers in Iceland,
watching Cirque du Soleil in Las Vegas, and
standing on the Skywalk over the Grand Canyon with nothing under you.

It is crazy to think that we have seen so many fabulous cathedrals, churches, paintings, sculptures, beaches and waterfalls that we can’t mention each one individually here.

We will be forever changed by having heard and seen the tragic stories behind the war in Vietnam, the genocide in Cambodia and the 9/11 terror attacks.

We have met and had fascinating discussions with tantric monks, gun-wielding Republicans and eccentric Italians. We have experienced extraordinary kindness from strangers offering directions, lifts, accommodation, and friendship.

Here are some of the latest stats from our 200 days:

Number of Countries	11	Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore, India, Nepal, Italy, Germany, Spain, Portugal, Iceland, and the United States(excludes countries where we were only in transit like Kenya, Malaysia, the United Arab Emirates, Malta, and France)
Distance travelled	55 000kms	At our best guess
Flights	22	Including the scenic flight over Mt Everest
Bus trips	26	Including sleeping buses
Train trips	7	Felt like much more – still not fully recovered from our train trips in India, but the trains in Europe are great
Boat trips	4	Larger ferries to smaller homemade boats to get to Nam Cat Island
Other transport used		Private car, rental car, taxis, tuk-tuks, canoes, paddle-skis, Uber, Lyft, safari jeeps and saw plenty by foot.

So much has happened over such a short period that it is difficult for us to digest and step back to reflect. One thing that we do know is that we are not the same people who began this journey 200 days ago.

The one that got away

(Originally posted 29 July 2016) We made a rookie mistake by trying to save some money on our flight to Iceland. Flying via Paris worked out much cheaper, even as two separate bookings – one from Porto, Portugal to Paris and then from Paris on to Reykjavík, Iceland. But the BIG MISTAKE happened when we did not check that we were arriving and leaving from the same airport.

We had not been able to visit Paris as part of this crazy adventure, so when it was the cheapest flight option, we jumped at the chance and tried to take advantage of the stopover. We thought we could use our 12 hours between our flights to get into the city for the day and see some of the significant sites.

Soon after booking our flights, we had a nagging feeling and checked our flights. That’s when we saw our mistake of needing to be at two different airports. As the ‘planner’, Lauren was initially freaked out, but we talked it over and thought it would still be okay since we would have to leave the airport anyway to tour the city. It would mean we would need to lug our two rather heavy bags now instead of storing them – an inconvenience but not a disaster.

Further investigations revealed that Beauvais airport is 80km out of Paris and a similar distance from Charles de Gaulle airport. A taxi would not be an option that worked within our budget!

We spent hours pouring over the different options for tackling this problem. No matter how we looked at it, the trains, buses and city tours would add up to way too much money to make it viable to get into the city and glimpse the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame Cathedral or the Louvre Museum.

So, in the end, we would not be able to explore Paris. Although we are no strangers to killing time at an airport, our day in Paris’ airports was particularly challenging with incredible ‘bucket list’ gems being so close but remaining elusive.

Featured image: Schalk and Lauren killing time at Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris

What is it about Rome?

(Originally posted 8 July 2016) We have both been to Rome before in 2005, and Lauren went again in 2009. Well, we went back in July 2016. So why do we keep going back when there is still so much of the rest of the world to see? What keeps drawing us to this city?

Rome was a city we visited on our first international holiday, and one could think that the nostalgia of the exciting maiden voyage is what intrigues us, but I believe it is so much more than that.

The famous and impressive sites like St Peter’s Basilica, Sistine Chapel, the Colosseum, the Castle of Angles, Piazza Navona, and the Pantheon are on everyone’s itinerary for Rome with just cause.

St Peters is breathtaking. You are first overwhelmed by the scale of it all, but when you look closer, every tiny part is impressive in its own way – you can keep coming back over and over again and see something new each time.

Light streaming into St Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City

The altar in St Peter’s with Bernini’s impressive bronze Baldacchino

The tallest dome in the world, St. Peter’s dome is 136.57 metres (448.1 ft) high, and its internal diameter is 41.47 metres (136.1 ft)

The colours of the Sistine Chapel are so bright and vibrant, with Michelangelo telling intriguing stories with each stroke of the brush. Be sure to wait your turn in the throngs of people for a seat where you can sit and quietly admire this place of beauty. Be sure to look up to the top right-hand corner above the entrance to see how dark the colours were before the restoration.

The Colosseum is a Wonder of the World* for good reason, and it gives you a glimpse into the majesty of Rome in her hay-day. The Castel Sant’Angelo and adjoining bridge (Ponte di ‘Angelo) over the Tiber river make great stops on a walk from St Peters Square to Piazza Navona.

Piazza Navona, with Bernini’s lovely fountain, Fontana dei Fiumi, surrounded by trendy and overpriced cafés, gives you a feel of what it is like to be a part of Rome’s high society. Nearby, the Pantheon, with its gigantic columns and high dome, is another attraction that shows the majesty of this city. We have been lucky enough to be here when it is raining to see how this perfect ancient design still works today to drain the water.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, Piazza Navona, Rome, Italy

Other attractions such as the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain are just as jaw-droppingly gorgeous. But this city has something lovely to see around every corner, with ruins and rich history everywhere you look.

How can you get the most out of Rome?

1. Spend no less than three days in Rome

You will find that you will already need to keep up a rapid pace if you only have three days in Rome. Although it is possible to see the major attractions in a well-organised tour over two days, you will not have time to walk the streets, enjoy the cafes, drink cappuccinos and eat ice cream.

2. Bring comfy shoes and get a good map

Many of the attractions are within walking distance from each other – we did not realise this on our first visit because we were transported by our tour bus. Walking also makes it possible to stop by all the hidden gems that can be found on your way.

3. Get a week metro/bus ticket if you stay for more than two days

The bus and metro transport network are helpful to get around to some of the outlying attractions or when you have just walked too much for one day – something that you do very easily in Rome because you are always checking what is around the next corner.

4. Buy tickets online

Many of the museum tickets can be purchased online in advance. This means you can avoid long lines in peak season. Without these tickets, you could find yourself, as we did at the entrance to the Galleria Borghese, with no more tickets left for that day.

5. Restorations are unavoidable

Don’t be disappointed if you arrive at an attraction and it is undergoing restorations. Every time we have been to Rome, this has happened, and at least one of the sites you want to see is likely to be covered up and inaccessible. It is just an unfortunate part of being a tourist with only a few days to explore a city, but there is so much to see, so just move on to the next awesome site.

*The Colosseum is one of the New7 Wonders of the World

Pride – in the name of love

(Originally posted 5 July 2016) We were in Rome and excited for our first pride parade, never having had the opportunity to attend Joburg Pride in our home city. We caught the Rome metro to the Colosseum – what better place could you find to watch Roma Pride? The anticipation built up as the parade took a long time to get to this location, but people all around us were holding hands, smiling and excited to be involved somehow.

Amongst all the joviality, you must not forget that Pride Parades have an important social and political purpose. But the party atmosphere is overwhelming. Couples, singles, mothers, fathers, dancing divas, people walking their dogs, and mostly friends – seemly a combination of old and newly introduced – walked the streets of Rome declaring that love is all that matters.

Some took the opportunity to strut their stuff in outlandish attire that would stop normal traffic. I must comment here that we would be hard-pressed to find a social cause worthy of a walk for a few kilometres in stiletto high-heels – but that is just us.

Roma Pride Parade as it passed the Colosseum, 11 June 2016

After the festivities, we left for home in good spirits and proud to have witnessed such a positive and fun social stand by the community in Rome on 11 June 2016.

The following day, we heard the devastating news about the massacre at Pulse in Orlando, US.

One day that included much happiness on one end of the world ended in terrible sadness on the other end of the globe. These events deeply saddened us, and our thoughts are with the injured and the families and friends of the deceased.

By the time we wrote this post, a few weeks had passed. It was challenging to know what to say, but we felt that we should post about something positive from that day. A day where we saw so much pride – all in the name of love.

Essential Items for Long-term Travellers

(Originally posted 29 June 2016) Lauren’s mother recently visited us about six months into our one-year trip and asked us what items we have not used; and what items we have found to be essential. She was with us in Johannesburg when we left for this trip and saw us straining under the weight of our hefty bags, so this was an appropriate question.

As we got going on our journey, we quickly noticed that all the other travellers with backpacks had far smaller bags than we did, and we saw the potential error in our ways. However, still in a vague state of denial, we have lugged these bags and their contents around for close to 150 days – it is tough letting go of the last few items you own in the world.

When we arrive in a city and are likely to wander somewhat disorientated until we get our bearings, we treat ourselves and catch a taxi to our lodgings. Public transport can wait until you are 18 – 25kgs lighter. This rule we put in place when we arrived at our first destination in Hanoi and kept being misdirected to a street with a similar name but not the alley where we had booked a hotel for a super discounted rate.

There are only a few items we use almost every day. Comfortable walking shoes have been vital. These shoes have trudged through fish markets, chewing gum, and filthy streets, but I would clasp them close to my chest if anyone tried to take them away.

A smaller daypack is also essential. The suitcase needs to stay in your room while you see the sights, eat the local cuisine, and mingle with the locals. I have found that I need a larger daypack than Schalk, who only carries his camera bag and stuffs his wallet and phone in his pocket.

Unlike Schalk, I also require more stuff. Sunscreen or mosquito repellent is needed depending on the time of the day and the location’s climate. I also carry a pashmina or scarf for sun and wind protection or cover my shoulders to enter a church or temple. A bottle of water, tissues, hand sanitiser and breath mints are also lugged around. It is worth pointing out that Schalk also uses all these items, but he never feels the need to take them when he leaves for the day out (#JustSaying).

If we have a day used for commuting, our Kindles are great – you only make so much small talk with your fellow traveller before you bore each other. This way, you can escape for a few hours at a time by entering a fictional world that does not talk back.

Zip-lock plastic bags are the bomb! They are surprisingly helpful for all sorts of things, so we both love them. We try not to carry too much cash around but have found that one credit card is not enough. Not all cash machines accept both Visa and MasterCard, so having one of each is a good idea – remember to store them in different places so that if you lose one, you can still find a way to shop.

Many items we packed are not used daily, but you are pretty pleased with yourself when you need them. This includes rain jackets and warm clothes for those unexpected changes in weather- like the freezing temperatures we experienced in Sapa, Vietnam.

Besides the commute on aeroplanes, buses and trains, just by being in the stations and airports, you are constantly surrounded by people sneezing, coughing and, in Asia, spitting. Combined with the strange hours you keep and unhealthy snacks and meals eaten on the run, your immune system is probably compromised. So it is likely that you will catch a cold on any extended journey.

When you are in a strange out-of-the-way place, where your home language is not commonly spoken, and you come down with a hectic cold, it is essential to have some medication. Having a few tablets that enable you to cope groggily for a few hours until you find a friendly pharmacist is very helpful. You often find yourself on pre-booked tours with busy schedules that make it difficult to find the time to buy something to use to dose yourself and dry up your nose, relieve the sinus pain, or lower a fever. So pack those meds!

Something we have used less than we thought we would, is our international power adapters. Our two-pronged devices from South Africa fit into most power outlets we have encountered thus far. We also have only needed to use our travel towels once as our hotels have provided towels.

I brought a sleep sheet to use if we arrive at a hotel with really dodge bedding. I have not needed this at all and have finally dumped it to lighten my bag’s weight. I may regret this later when being eaten alive by bedbugs, but my bag was progressively getting heavier with a few bits and bobs that I had collected, so I needed to ditch a few items. Scaly skin is something that I can now live with, so all body lotion and moisturiser have been chucked. My sunglasses case and a pair of shoes have also been sacrificed, but I am hanging on to my travel hairdryer – a woman needs some of her comforts after all.

Friendship revisited

(Originally posted 9 June 2016) It is rare to meet the same people again when you are away from home and constantly on the move, and it can be somewhat lonely. Even if you only shared recent travel experiences on a quick airport transfer or exchanged a few words regarding your home country and family with a guide or driver, bumping into someone familiar unexpectedly is great.

Slaps on backs, sometimes hugs and usually vigorous handshaking follow the smiles and waves in recognition of someone your path has crossed before. You are usually familiar with what the person was planning, and quickly get up to speed with all that has happened since you last saw each other and exchange exciting stories about your adventures.

The warm fuzzy feeling of some level of camaraderie is wonderfully pleasant, and you find yourself over-eagerly engaging with your new, even if temporary, friend.

So if you bump into someone for the second time, don’t be surprised if the travellers behave like you are a long lost companion. Enjoy the company, share a drink and a story and let them be on their way, wondering if they will ever bump into their friend again.

Our Sicilian experience

(Originally posted 5 June 2016) We had not originally planned to visit Sicily, but when we realised how close we were, simply needing to catch a 30-minute ferry and how our friends in Italy were raving about it, the choice seemed obvious.

We arrived in Messina, Sicily, via the ferry from Villa San Giovanni. This was our very first ferry journey where we had taken a car onboard, and to make it more exciting, the weather was quite dramatic. As we crossed, we could see areas of bright sunshine right next to the dark skies of a menacing storm. As advised, we had timed our journey so that we would be able to catch the famous ringing of the tower’s bells at the Duomo of Santa Maria Assunta.

Incoming storm clouds — View from the ferry to Messina

Still not 100% confident while driving on the right-hand side of the road, simple things for locals like figuring out where to get tickets for the ferry journey and how to pay for the toll roads all became part of the Sicilian adventure.

Google maps on these winding roads can be tricky to follow, so by accident, we drove through Taormina’s hilltop streets, edging our way through the tourist masses. However, we were glad for the necessity to drive slowly on these winding roads next to sheer drops to the ocean.

We finally made our way to our home for the next few days in Letojanni, a beach town practically located in Taormina’s shadow. The apartment was a fantastic base for us, and as the peak season had not yet started, we had the building (and its private beachfront) to ourselves. We also had access to the best Gelato on the planet – Crème Caramel flavoured!

One highlight of our day of wandering the streets of Taormina was the visit to the Teatro Greco. You can only imagine what it must have been like to view the performances at this theatre with the fantastic view of the ocean below.

Since we still had our rental car, we planned a day trip down the coast, driving past a steaming Mt Etna. We travelled to the wonderfully Baroque town of Noto, with its elaborate stone buildings. The architecture was lovely and made this visit very special. On our way home, we stopped at Siracuse and Ortigia Island. The Duomo Siracuse and the adjoining Piazza were also well worth the trip.

The public transport system is very efficient and affordable, so we quickly realised that we could return our rental car and save a lot of money. The remaining days in Sicily were spent lazily walking into town, buying local wine and fresh produce to make delicious meals while eating gelato on your way home, enjoying the view of the pebble beaches.

Overall, hiring an apartment in Letojanni, Sicily, in May is something we would highly recommend to anyone who needs a little soul rejuvenation.

View more photos of our visit to Sicily and Southern Italy here.

Loving Southern Italy

(Originally posted 21 May 2016) Ask any Italian, and they will confirm the rivalry between southern and northern Italy. Those from the chic cosmopolitan cities in the north seldom give the south the credit that we now know it deserves.

At the tip of the boot of Italy, the province of Calabria was where we found ourselves after making arrangements on via helpx.net a few months ago to volunteer our services in exchange for accommodation. If it were not for this arrangement, we might not have visited this area on our round-the-world trip.

We landed at Lamezia Terme, hired a car and had to learn to drive on the wrong side of the road very quickly. Warning: driving on the opposite side can be a real test of your marriage and should not be attempted by the faint-hearted.

We travelled along the western coast to Tropea in a nervous and bickering state. When you first see the sea, you forget your petty differences (like who is driving and who is a passenger), and your mood improves vastly. The colours of the clear water are something special, changing from dark azure blue to light aquamarine depending on the depth.

The views from the hilltop in Tropea are lovely — Spectacular views from Tropea, Calabria, Italy

From Tropea, you take a winding (and nail-bitingly narrow) road up to the hilltop village of Caria, where Lisa, Salvatore, and a precocious cat called Mila, would be our hosts for a few days. In May, the lush green vegetation is dotted with bright colours from the wildflowers, and the views across orchards to the ocean are picture-perfect.

Lisa and Salvatore grew up in the area, lived in other parts of Italy and later returned to their family property. The property has three cottages, and because of the rain and overgrown vegetation, the gardens and the property require substantial maintenance, especially since their two boys are grown-up and off studying in the north – that is where we were able to help.

Also staying on the property was another volunteering couple, Maureen and Christoff, from France and Germany. Christoff is a chef, and combined with Lisa’s magical Italian cooking, we ate very well during our communal meals. These were lovely times when we drank the local wines and homemade limoncello while speaking a weird combination of English, German, and Italian (each person with a different understanding of what was said).

A delicious pasta dish cooked by our friend Christoff

Christoff, Maureen, Salvatore and Lauren, after a busy day of work

The local produce available in Calabria is fantastic. The fresh fruit and vegetables, cheeses, baked goods, cured sausages, sauces and picked products make it difficult not to be constantly nibbling. Luckily we were kept busy burning calories while varnishing all the wooden frames, weeding the large garden and helping to set up an irrigation system for a vegetable garden.

A tree full of cured sausages at Capo Vaticano, Calabria, Italy

Sunset in Lisa’s lovely garden in Caria, Calabria, Italy

The weather was very unpredictable, with rain and sunshine moments apart, making it difficult to work outside. That is when we would head off exploring, but it is worth noting that siesta is taken very seriously in this part of the world. Except for the souvenir shops, all the stores are closed for a few hours in the afternoon. This is something we kept forgetting and, unfortunately, headed into town while all was still. Walking down the stairs from the viewpoint, where the only other people were also ill-timed tourists visiting the area, we found a quiet little place on the beach that served the most delicious cappuccinos for €1.50.

Having fallen so in love with this part of Italy, we have decided to head further south to Sicily and spend a week there as part of our Italian experience. We hope it will continue to be as lovely as our time has been so far.

If you want to visit Caria in Calabria, Lisa and Salvatore rent out the cottage and specialise in accommodating those travelling with their dogs. Get more info here: http://fcaq2015.wix.com/casa-italia

The first 100 days

(Originally posted 14 May 2016) One hundred days have passed in a flash. It feels like we have been planning this round-the-world trip for so long, and now the time is rushing by.

Here is a snapshot of what we have done so far:

Number of Countries	6	Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore, India, Nepal, and Italy (excludes countries where we were only in transit like Kenya, Malaysia, Malta and the United Arab Emirates)
Distance travelled	35,000kms	At our best guess
Flights	14	Including the scenic flight over Mt Everest
Bus trips	15	Including sleeping buses
Train trips	2	Felt like much more
Boat trips	4	Larger ferries to smaller homemade boats to get to Nam Cat Island
Other transport used		Private car, rental car, taxis, tuk-tuks, canoes, paddle-skis, safari jeeps, and saw plenty by foot.

We can’t wait to see what the next 100 days will hold.

Feature Image: Lauren and Schalk, from South Africa, have travelled for just over 100 days on their round-the-world trip. On writing this post, they were in Caria, Calabria, Italy.

A day in Pokhara

(Originally posted 07 May 2016) Pokhara is the second-largest city in Nepal, with a population of approximately 260 000. Nestled between the foothills of the Himalayas and next to a lake, Pokhara is a ‘must visit’. It is an outdoors and adrenalin junkie’s heaven while at the same time being a tranquil place with a slower pace.

In this city, you can choose easier-paced activities like visiting yoga and meditation retreats or spas. If you prefer to take walks and do trekking, you can select various trails that suit your ability. Choose between bungee jumping, paragliding, river rafting, and flying in a microlight for the more adventurous.

If shopping is your thing, the pashmina, cashmere and large variety of handcrafted items are available at reasonable prices. Excellent coffee, cold beer and delicious local and international cuisine are available around every corner.

Needless to say, our stay was far too short, but we put our full day in Pokhara to good use. The day started with a 4:30 am taxi drive up to Sarangkot. From here you can watch the sunrise over the Himalayas as it lights up the majestic peaks, including Annapurna (the tenth highest mountain at 8091m). On the other side, you can see the lakeside city of Pokhara slowly being bathed in light. The clouds move quickly, and in a matter of minutes, the mountains right at the top are covered and seem as though they were never there.

We were invited to watch the sunrise from the roof of a Nepalese home. This hospitable man and his wife have lived in the area since they were children, and he points out his childhood home from our viewpoint. He tells me about his time working for the UN mission as an observer and brings me a cup of sweet coffee. He is selling posters of the mountain range, but when asked how much we must pay for the coffee, he shrugs and says, “only if you want to.”

After breakfast, we head out to Shanti Stupa, also known as the Peace Pagoda. This Buddhist pagoda-style monument is situated on a hilltop. Climbing the stairs takes some time, but it is worth seeing the beautiful view. The distant sound of a monk beating a drum in the temple below made this visit even more special.

Never ending views from around Pokhara — View from Shanti Stupa, Pokhara, Nepal

Next, we travel across the city to Patale Chhango, commonly called Devi’s Waterfall. It is a lovely little waterfall situated in an urban area and cascades down moss-covered rocks. Unfortunately, there is a bit of litter strewn around, which taints the visit slightly, but there is a quaint market outside for the shopaholics.

Waterfall in Pokhara — Devi’s Waterwall in the middle of Pokhara, Nepal

Walking across the road, you can go to the entrance of Gupteshwor Mahadev cave. A large spiral stairway leads the way down to the cave, where various artists have recently placed gorgeous cement gargoyles and statues to view. There is a Hindu temple inside where a stalagmite has formed a natural statue of Shiva.

We passed the tiny temple inside and made our way into the dimly lit tunnel. You are entirely focused on the steps going down at one point and holding onto the railing to not slip on the damp floor, and you are completely surprised by the view as you look up. A long narrow opening lets the sunlight in, and you see the same green moss-covered rocks and bottom of the waterfall from the other end.

Our day ended perfectly with a delicious meal at one of the lakeside restaurants. Now a day like this makes it totally worthwhile to travel across the world.